The city of Chennai (formerly Madras), on India’s south-east coast, was founded in the 17th century when the British East India Company built a harbour and fort here as a base for its spice trade. This led to a settlement known as George Town (so called because it was completed on St George’s Day) and it was from here that the modern town grew up.
The fort complex was surrounded by a 6m high wall and contained several buildings, including an army garrison, administrative quarters and a church. Lord Clive (‘Clive of India’), who helped to establish British rule in India, had his residence here for a while and it was also used as a base for the British regiment.
It was briefly occupied by the French before reverting to British control. The Fort is now used as the administrative headquarters for the regional government and acts as a base for the Indian army. Several of the original buildings remain, including Clive House, and Wellesley House, home to Richard Wellesley, brother of the Duke of Wellington. Tourists can stroll through the grounds of the complex and visit the Fort Museum and St Mary’s Church.
Fort Museum
The Fort Museum is one of the oldest buildings in the complex. Completed in 1795, it was originally the home of the Madras Bank. Today it houses collections from the British Raj, the East India Company and St Mary’s Church.
As you enter you are greeted by a massive marble statue of Lord Cornwallis, who was Governor General of India from 1786 to 1793. There are ten galleries in the museum, with displays of uniforms, weaponry, coins and flags. The Porcelain Gallery contains official tableware from the East India Company and the Indo-French Gallery has items from the period of French occupation, including furniture and clocks. You can also see a model of the Fort as it was in the 19th century.
The old Public Exchange Hall on the first floor was used for meetings and entertainment. It is now the Portrait Gallery, with pictures of a number of British dignitaries including George III, Queen Victoria and Robert Clive.
St Mary’s Church
Built in 1680, this is India’s oldest Anglican church. Although small, it is sometimes known as the ‘Westminster of the East’ because of its old British tombstones and because it was used for important weddings such as those of Robert Clive and Elihu Yale (a governor of the fort and founder of Yale University in the US). Look out for the glass windows, wall frescos and carved teak plaques.
Visting the Fort
The fort is served by the Chennai Fort railway station which is on the Chennai suburban railway line. The Museum and St Mary’s Church are open from 10 am to 5 pm (closed on Fridays). There is an entry charge for the museum.
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